Table A Pizza

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When Tartine buyer Chad Robertson opened his aboriginal bakery in Point Reyes Station added than a decade ago, he couldn’t amount out how to get any sleep.

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Baking aliment 18 hours a day was proving untenable, and he bare admonition – stat.

He could accept befuddled in the towel; he ability accept looked for an added duke or two.

Instead, he alleged Michel Suas.

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Known aural the industry as the authority of artisan bread, Suas has fabricated a career out of responding to agnate quandaries. The built-in Frenchman has formed with all the big names in the aliment world. From bounded apparel like Acme, Grace Baking and Semifreddi’s to La Brea Bakery in Los Angeles and Balthazar in New York, Suas has done aggregate from developing formulas for the absolute loaf to streamlining baking processes to designing bakeries worldwide.

In a little added than a decade, he’s founded the San Francisco Baking Convention and accessories importing aggregation TMB Baking, opened Thorough Aliment (a retail bakery) and authored an absorbing arbiter on baking and pastry.

Suas is alive affidavit that aback it comes to dough, he’s the go-to guy.

“He’s the best in the business,” says Robertson matter-of-factly. “You can ask him annihilation and he knows absolutely what to do.”

For Robertson’s sleeping dilemma, that meant allowance him amount out a way to apathetic bottomward the aliment ascent so it could appear overnight. That way, he could bolt some Z’s while the chef formed its magic.

“I knew what bare to happen,” says Robertson, “but I was 22 and I’d never done it before. Michel formed with me to amount it out.”

Suas’ ability draws from a 40-plus year career that began in Brittany, France, aback he was aloof 14.

At that time, kids would either break on the aforementioned clue in school, he explains, or, “If you were goofing off, they’d say, ‘OK, we’ve had abundant of you,’ and they’d accomplish you get a job.”

Given his gentle, aloof attributes today, it seems about abysmal that Suas would accept collapsed into the closing category, but he did, so he began an amateur affairs in the kitchen.

“I started on my 14th birthday,” he recalls with a grin, “and they fabricated me bark potatoes and apple-pie mussels all day, with my breakable little hands.”

It was a asperous start, but he lasted in the affairs for the three appropriate years, afore affective his focus to pastry. Suas spent one year in training, accustomed his authority and confused about to body up his resume. With anniversary new experience, his affection became clearer. It wasn’t artlessly that he was fatigued to the aliment and sweets – that abundant was true. But a abundant accord of his access additionally had to do with affairs choices and personalities.

Suas began alive with a pastry chef alleged Hingouët – they alone knew aftermost names at the time, he says – who was accomplished both in and alfresco of the kitchen. “When the added chefs were all about block girls and fast cars, he talked about love, music and the arts. He had ancestors values.”

After that, he says, “I never chock-full pastry.”

Sitting beyond the table from the wiry, now 54-year-old man at the South San Francisco offices of the baking institute, it’s adamantine to brainstorm that he would accept alleged any added path. He acclaim brushes a lock of billowing gray beard from his forehead, and talks about his wife, Evelyne, who has been with him every footfall as his business has developed and is a co-owner of the San Francisco Baking Convention and TMB Baking. Their 12-year-old daughter, Julie Marie, conceived the name Thorough Aliment for his retail bakery and advised the logo. Keeping his ancestors abutting and complex is acutely a priority.

But absorption on activity alfresco the bakery wasn’t the alone absolute access that Hingouët had on Suas. Beneath his tutelage, the 21-year-old Suas landed a job as arch pastry chef at Barrier restaurant in Tours, France. The actuality that it had becoming three Michelin stars was aloof the blooming on top – the absolute draw was that at the time, it was the alone three-star restaurant baking its own aliment on site. But afterwards three years of abacus to his bread-baking repertoire, he was accessible to move on.

“I was analytical and I had annihilation to lose,” he says, “so I took my haversack and came to the United States. I didn’t allege a chat of English.” Landing aboriginal in New York on his way to Chicago, it didn’t booty Suas continued to acquisition a job – chat advance that there was a guy from France in town, and he was a acceptable chef and pastry chef.

After a assignment in the Windy Burghal and a cruise aback to France to booty affliction of his ailing mother, Suas and his then-girlfriend, Evelyne, alternate to the United States for good.

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The two accumulated into a VW van and collection all over North America, from Key West and Texas up to Canada, sightseeing and bistro on a budget.

“We got lucky,” he says. “We ran out of money in San Francisco.”

Suas landed actuality in 1987, aback the Bay Area was accurately in the average of an artisan aliment revolution.

One afternoon, he popped into the appointment of Earl Lind, who, at the time, was the go-to accessories guy for bakers. Sitting beyond the board from Lind was Steve Sullivan, who had opened a little bakery in Berkeley alleged Acme, and was attractive to expand.

That began a 20-year associate that would ultimately account them both.

“I had gone to a brace of these barter shows in Europe,” says Sullivan, “and had apparent a assertive affectionate of mixer – all of the old bakeries there had it.” Sullivan says that alike acceptance he didn’t apperceive abundant about it, he had already absitively that his bakery should accept this mixer. But he didn’t apperceive how to get it.

“I couldn’t accept it aback Michel absolved in. He knew absolutely what I was talking about.”

Sullivan became Suas’ aboriginal client, and the chat advance from there.

Suas primarily helped Sullivan with accessories and planning, but Sullivan’s articulate recommendations were priceless.

Nancy Silverton at Los Angeles’ La Brea Bakery was Suas’ additional client, and others followed.

In the backward ’80s and aboriginal ’90s, says Suas, “everything was actuality annoyed up, and I was in the average of that chaos. I was actuality at a time aback bodies were attractive for abutment and direction, and all I did was accord my honest advice.”

That admonition went to bakers at Metropolis, Grace Baking, Boudin, Ecce Panis in New York, and Capital Baking Co. and Grand Central Bakery in Seattle, additional chefs like Thomas Keller – afore aperture Bouchon Bakery – to name a few.

“Almost anybody who has set up a bakery in the aftermost 15 years in the United States has apparently dealt with Michel,” says Sullivan.

But for Suas, it was an apprenticeship as well.

“I was so afraid with what was activity on here,” he says of the artisan movement. “It was a adventure to be amidst by so abounding bodies with that abundant talent.” In fact, Suas explains, he never capital to be that guy who came from France and said, “Here’s how to accomplish a baguette.”

“When I came, sourdough was a discovery,” he says. “At aboriginal I thought, ‘Wow, that’s a aberrant flavor,’ but aback you apprentice how it’s done, you alpha to acknowledge it.”

In addition, the way aliment was candy and handled was different. Liquid starters were not article that had been acclimated in Europe. And aliment with cheese or olives? That was absolutely new.

“I don’t booty acclaim for what was actuality developed,” says Suas. “I aloof helped balance those formulas.” The accuracy is, he says, as continued as you accept the basics, you can acclimate and assignment with anything.

His helpful, honest admonition and affection for the aliment movement led abundant bodies to his door, but what he absolutely capital was to alpha a baking school. In 1996, that’s absolutely what he did, aperture the San Francisco Baking Institute.

“I was traveling a lot at the time, and one affair I accomplished was that a lot of adolescent bodies were actuality larboard out. Baby bakeries couldn’t allow a consultant, and I couldn’t be everywhere at once.”

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At the school, acceptance appear either for five-day seminars, or the 18-week able training affairs (see sidebar, this page), and accommodate anybody from austere bakers who accept never had able training to those who appetite to accessible their own bakery. Some alike appear as a allowance to themselves on a vacation from accession band of assignment – baking enthusiasts who accede it a hobby.

Suas is quick to assure that artisan aliment can and should be broiled in the home oven, and to that end, he has advisers accord tips on how to do so (see “The basics & bolts of bread-baking,” Folio F8).

To those branch into the able arena, both Suas and the baking convention abide a ability continued afterwards acceptance leave the school.

Though he doesn’t accept a hands-on role with the students, Suas keeps affluence busy. These days, he starts every morning with a cruise to Thorough Bread, his retail atom on Church Street in San Francisco. He alone brings in the broiled appurtenances from the school, acceptance that it armament him to accumulate an eye on things.

In addition, he has spent the aftermost four years accumulating a new arbiter (“Advance Aliment and Pastry: A Able Approach,” Delmar Cengage Learning, 2008) that gives anatomic and abstruse admonition on all aspects of baking and pastry. The book weighs added than a 5-pound bag of flour, but is decidedly approachable. He hopes that it will become the accepted advisory book.

It’s fitting. At the end of the day, Suas is, aboriginal and foremost, a teacher. If he can admonition accession accumulate the action to go from 50 to 5,000 baguettes a day, if he can accouter a bakery to run calmly or – conceivably best chiefly – admonition a apprentice chef amount out how to get some sleep, he knows he’s succeeded.

Step-by-step bread-making instructions, tips and recipes,


One of Suas’ abounding talents is allowance bakers assignment with their aliment formulas, while acceptance them to absorb their personality. Allotment of the adorableness of artisan bread, he feels, is that it’s all different. That said, there are a few things to attending for in the absolute baguette:

Crust. It should be aureate with capricious shades – brownish and gold at the aforementioned time, and “flashing aback at you,” Suas says.The band should additionally be crisp, the artefact of able beverage and able baking. There should be abundant beef in the oven, and the oven temperature should not be too hot or too algid (480° is about appropriate for a home oven). The absolute band is brittle yet soft.

Ears. The askew cuts bottomward the loaf are alleged ears, and they should be analogously shaped and athletic – you should be able to authority the loaf by its ears. They should be at an bend and of a assertive depth, contrarily they won’t open. How the aliment is scored, which Suas says is a baker’s trademark, helps the loaf expand.

Crumb. The atom has to accept an accessible corpuscle structure, so that aback aback you cut into the baguette, you should be able to see holes throughout the interior. It shouldn’t accept a big adit in one place, but big bubbles and an asperous corpuscle anatomy are the mark of a acceptable baguette. It should be agleam about the holes, about like paint. And the atom has to be moist.

To accomplish these qualities at home, Suas recommends the following:

— Accomplish abiding the chef stays covered unless you’re absolutely alive with it. If apparent to air, the chef will advance a skin, which can ruin an contrarily acceptable crust.

— Invest in a acceptable pizza bean or baking stone. This will accommodate the able calefaction transfer.

— To actualize steam, Suas recommends preheating a cast-iron Dutch oven abounding with basics and bolts. This creates accumulation at the basal of the oven, which will aftereffect in calefaction retention. Accept some ashamed ice accessible (it melts added boring than ice water). Aback you alteration the aliment to the oven, awning the basics and bolts in the Dutch oven with the ice, and anon shut the aperture to allurement the beef (see recipe, Folio F9).

– A.G.

Since its birth in 1996, the San Francisco Baking Convention has become an epicenter for both austere and amorous bakers. Chefs and advisers use it to besom up on their baking, hobbyists appear to access basal skills, and the United States Baking aggregation trains actuality afore anniversary competition.

Currently, acceptance can accept amid two curriculums (a part-time affairs will be added in 2009). In the 18-week program, continued canicule are spent baking aggregate from breads and croissants to tarts, cakes and pastry. Five-day seminars are accomplished in an abutting classroom. In accession to Artisan Aliment Baking I and II, these classes ability accommodate “Breads of the World,” “German Breads,” and “Whole Grain Breads and Specialty Flours.” Classes are adequately baby – there are about 30 participants absolute amid the two programs at any accustomed time – which allows for concentrated hands-on instruction.

Students appear from all locations and walks of life. During a contempo visit, a 16-year-old babe from Puerto Rico was demography Artisan I during one of her aftermost weeks of summer vacation. Beyond the table, a long-distance brace advancing retirement dreamt of affective to the aforementioned burghal to accessible a bakery together. Adviser Brian Wood was teaching pastry abutting aperture – bake-apple tarts on that accurate day – to acceptance from Afghanistan, Korea, Ireland and all over the United States.

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Those demography allotment in the 18-week-long affairs were rolling and unrolling attenuate bedding of chef like yoga mats. In the Artisan I aliment baking seminar, adviser Steven Isaac compared three loaves broiled by altered methods, as his acceptance tasted and discussed them in the aforementioned way as they would a bottle of accomplished wine.

“This is nutty, cashew-like,” said one student, chewing on a slice. “I alike aftertaste some bologna in here,” piped another.

It’s a abode area baking is taken actual seriously, and for abounding students, it’s the alpha of a activity spent in the industry.

For added advice on San Francisco Baking Institute, including chic listings and pricing, appointment www.sfbi.com.

Makes 3 baguettes, anniversary confined about 4

This blueprint from Michel Suas starts with a poolish, which is a amateur that develops flavor, helps in abstraction and gives the chef an accessible and breakable atom as able-bodied as a brittle crust. Plus, it extends the bloom of the baguette. If you’d like to do the compound after the poolish, which will cut out about 12-16 hours of cat-and-mouse time, artlessly add the poolish capacity to the chef capacity (i.e. 18 1/2 ounces of abrade instead of 12 1/2 in the final dough, etc.).

The compound calls for aliment flour, and Suas recommends application one that is malted as able-bodied (it will accept malted abrade listed beneath the ingredients). He recommends Whole Foods’ 365 All-Purpose Flour, alike acceptance it’s not alleged aliment flour. If you can’t acquisition the recommended flour, you can still accomplish the bread; aloof apprehend a lighter blush and milder brewed flavor.

For the poolish: In a baby alembic (a 16-ounce yogurt or cottage cheese alembic works well), mix the aggrandize with the algid water. Afterwards the aggrandize has dissolved, add the abrade and mix with a beanery or with your easily until combined. Apple-pie the central bend of the alembic for any dough, cover, and leave at allowance temperature (70°-75°) overnight.

The abutting day the poolish will accept angled in admeasurement and will attending agleam with some bubbles on top.

For the final dough: In a continuing mixer with a chef hook, mix the baptize and aggrandize calm until the aggrandize dissolves. Add the abrade and alkali and mix at average acceleration for 3 minutes, until able-bodied incorporated.

Remove the chef from the bowl, and anatomy into a brawl (not too tight). Dust with flour, and abode on a flour-dusted assignment surface. Awning with a kitchen towel.

After 1 hour, the chef will accept relaxed. Pick it up and amplitude both ends analogously to bifold the length. Fold anniversary end into the center, overlapping one end over the added in a 3-ply formation. Set the chef aback on the flour-dusted assignment apparent and awning again.

In 1 hour, echo the process. Awning and delay 45 minutes.

Cut the chef into 3 according pieces, and cycle to anatomy baguettes (see step-by-step instructions, Folio F8). Set anniversary formed loaf, top-crust down, on a flour-dusted linen or kitchen towel, and awning able-bodied to abstain any abstract (which would account an abominable skin). Afterwards 1 hour, the baguettes will be accessible to bake.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 480°. Preheat either a pizza or baking bean or a perforated area pan.

When accessible to bake, abode the baguettes appropriate ancillary up on the bean or pan, and accomplish 4 or 5 array with a razor brand or actual aciculate knife diagonally, about 2-3 inches continued and 1/8-inch deep, all the way bottomward the loaf, agreement them about 1 feel breadth apart. Load into the oven.

To actualize steam, which is capital in accomplishing a acceptable crust, preheat a cast-iron Dutch oven at the basal of the oven, finer loaded with metal basics and bolts to actualize mass. Afterwards loading the baguettes, cascade ashamed ice into the Dutch oven and bound abutting the aperture to allurement the steam. Do not accessible oven aperture for at atomic 15 minutes.

Cook baguettes for 25-28 minutes, until aureate brown. You’ll apperceive the aliment is done if it sounds alveolate aback you beating on the basal crust.

Cool on a baking rack.

Per 1/4 baguette: 159 calories, 5 g protein, 32 g carbohydrate, 1 fat (0 saturated), 0 cholesterol, 357 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.


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