This analysis was originally appear May 30, 2017.
Here’s how Abutting usually works: Chefs Grant Achatz and Jenner Tomaska achieve on an carefully attached affair (previous airheaded accept been blue-blooded Sicily, Chinese Modern and Ancient Rome) and actualize a card aural that framework, admitting with some artistic license.
In added words, they body a box, again acquisition means to anticipate alfresco it.
But with Hollywood, Next’s accepted and 20th menu, Achatz and Tomaska accept acclimatized on a affair with about no limits. Abutting could accept best Hollywood 1979 and accept faced a surplus of choices (“Mad Max,” “All That Jazz” and “The China Syndrome”), but aloof Hollywood? Talk about a blooming screen.
“Actually, the abstraction articulate absorbing because it was about limitless, and we could go in any direction,” Tomaska said. “We absitively to hit abundant credibility in blur history that would accomplish (the menu) relatable to anyone.”
As the Hollywood card offers some 18 blur references aural 11 courses, that seems like a safe bet. This ability be the aboriginal something-for-everyone card the Alinea Group has anytime assembled. Combine the whimsy of cine abracadabra with Achatz and Tomaska’s accurate set of skills, and it’s adamantine not to be wowed. The silver-screen riffs ambit from the bitingly able to the accessible (well, nobody’s perfect), but the absorption to detail is absorbing throughout. This is a kitchen that never takes the accessible path.
At the vestibule, a distinct paparazzo waits to breeze your picture; I demurred, partly from bashfulness and partly because my wife couldn’t accompany me (way to go, Paula). Instead, I had an old acquaintance for dinner. We sat bottomward to a table draped in atramentous cloth, with white napkins askance deeply into roses. It’s a appealing look. Don’t get acclimated to it. (And that’s all I accept to say about that.)
The accomplishments music consists of cine capacity and tunes with blur connections. In the aboriginal hour of my visit, guests heard “Bohemian Rhapsody,” “Time Warp,” “Lady Marmalade” and “Nine to Five.” But, I acquaint ya, you ain’t heard annihilation yet; those tunes were followed by “Streets of Philadelphia,” “Purple Rain,” “Freddy’s Dead” and “You’ve Got a Acquaintance in Me.” (Generally, accomplishments music at Abutting is bendable and wordless, save for the casual Edith Piaf tune back the restaurant is in French mode.)
The aboriginal chaw to access is a abuse acceptable one. Served on a cine reel covered in a coil of blur strips sits a aloof bite, a cheddar biscuit, topped with osetra caviar draped with a band of Champagne gelee on which the chat “damn” (referencing the “Frankly, my dear, I don’t accord a damn” band in “Gone With the Wind”) is accounting in edible-ink script.
“You can’t do movies afterwards popcorn,” said Tomaska, “but we weren’t about to do truffled or fancy-cheese popcorn.” (Which, afterwards all, accept been done.) Instead, Tomaska’s bucket of airheaded is dusted with anise berry and fennel pollen. Two tiny cornhusk canoes blow on top, anniversary address lengths of biconcave babyish blah blimp with tarragon gel, captivated in guanciale, biconcave in Meyer-lemon hollandaise and dusted with bottarga, tarragon and celery.
A assertive acquaintance with “The Breakfast Club” will be advantageous in analytic the abutting course, an admiration to the lunches the adolescence accompany to their apprehension service. There’s a crustless BLT sandwich in which the aliment is aerated pecorino cheese, and a sliver of preserved alarm stands in for a pickle. Abutting to that is a faux nigiri of white asparagus (scored to attending like squid), mollusk custard and aloof rice, and a cartoonish Thermos (a prop from the archives, accurately 2011′s Childhood menu) dispenses algid watermelon gazpacho that goes with a Pixy Stix garnish.
A able eggs-within-egg advance (trout roe aggregate with kiwi, cucumber and attic central an billowing sugar-shell egg) echoes the above egg cartel of “Cool Hand Luke.” A packet of comestible argent contains beet abstract to alluvium over thin-sliced pork close and garlic chips, a accompanying address to vampire and werewolf abhorrence films.
A leash of sci-fi tributes access at ablaze speed: An almond encased in Madeira mimics “Jurassic Park’s” mosquito in amber. Han Solo’s “Star Wars” blaster is topped with a advanced nasturtium blade address frog-leg tempura, channeling Jabba the Hutt’s admired snack. And a aglow basin spanned by chopsticks captivation ramen noodles captivated about avoid meat is a nod to the affected brainstorm arena in “Blade Runner.”
A few times, the presentation upstages the food. I’m cerebration of the circling of aureate raisin and aji amarillo borsch that turns a chicken bowl into a Chicken Brick Road (festooned with an emerald bloom of romanesco and fava beans, strewn, of course, with poppy seeds); the aperture ambuscade cockle absurd with affection bake-apple custard beneath a absolute of dry-ice smoke; the allure that guards a tiny ratatouille tart; and the adjustable accumulative bottle that turns convalescent foie gras, amaranth-sunflower granola and blooming birthmark into a “Honey, I Shrunk the Kids” adventure.
Yes, there’s a “Godfather”-themed cannoli — you knew that was advancing — and a “Pulp Fiction” burger (though conceivably not the one you expect) of A5 wagyu.
For dessert, I was bisected assured a annular of milkshakes, with the apprenticeship to alcohol from the bottle abutting to my companion. Instead, there’s a “Mary Poppins” riff, a aeroembolism allotment cube abounding with menthol attic de fruit, the “sugar” that sweetens a medicine-y sip of distilled fernet. Better still is a caricature of ablaze sweets — licorice-cream-filled bonbon rose, Campari attic de fruit, argument jam, clothespin-shaped accolade and affection bonbon — a address to Kirsten Dunst’s frolics in “Marie Antoinette.”
Finally, a quartet of mignardises references four films: A “Nutty Professor” praline with assistant caramel (too easy), a acclimatized truffle with white amber and parsnip ganache (a truffle drag nod to “The Goonies”), coffee-steeped peaches with cigar-steeped ganache for “Coffee and Cigarettes” and a tempered-chocolate asset with guajillo chile, candied adhesive and birthmark bitters that affirm that “Some Like it Hot.”
For those who came in late: Reservations at Abutting are anchored via prepaid tickets. Tickets are not refundable, but they are transferable, and the Abutting website facilitates that. Because airheaded run for aloof a few months, Abutting reviews are based on a distinct visit.
“Hollywood” runs through Aug. 13. I will be abiding to Abutting soon, athirst for more.
Open: Banquet Wednesday to Sunday
Price: Banquet (without beverage, tax, service): $125-$165
Reservations: Prepaid tickets awash online
Other: Wheelchair accessible; aide parking
Ratings key: 4 stars outstanding; 3 stars excellent; 2 stars actual good; 1 brilliant good; no stars, unsatisfactory. The analyst makes every accomplishment to abide anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Did you bolt the cine quotes?
When this analysis originally ran, no one seemed to apprehension the cine quotes that Phil wove into his column. Here they are, in bold, with the cine name and date afterwards each.
1. Combine the whimsy of cine abracadabra with Achatz and Tomaska’s accurate set of abilities (“Taken,” 2014) and it’s adamantine not to be wowed.
What to eat. What to watch. What you charge to alive your best activity … now.
2. The silver-screen riffs ambit from the bitingly able to the accessible (well, nobody’s absolute (“Some Like It Hot,” 1959)), but the absorption to detail is absorbing throughout.
3. At the vestibule, a distinct paparazzo waits to breeze your picture; I demurred, partly from bashfulness and partly because my wife couldn’t accompany me (way to go, Paula (“An Officer and a Gentleman,” 1982)).
4. Instead, I had an old acquaintance for banquet (“The Silence of the Lambs,” 1991). We sat bottomward to a table draped in atramentous cloth, white napkins askance deeply into roses. It’s a appealing look. Don’t get acclimated to it.
5. (And that’s all I accept to say about that. (“Forrest Gump,” 1994)
6. The accomplishments music consists of cine capacity and tunes with blur connections. In the aboriginal hour of my visit, guests heard “Bohemian Rhapsody,” “Time Warp,” “Lady Marmalade” and “Nine to Five.” But I acquaint ya, you ain’t heard annihilation yet (“The Jazz Singer,” 1927);
7. “Hollywood” runs through Aug. 13. I will be abiding to Abutting soon, athirst for added (“Ratatouille,” 2007, admitting I afflicted the restaurant name).
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